review: cooking is back… (kong hans kælder)

the ulterior epicure

Kong Hans Kælder


It used to be that people talkedabout dishes. Now, they talk about names.

Those of you who read this blog or follow me on social media know that I have been fairly critical of the way the restaurant industry has shifted the focus away from the diner, and has, in general, devolved into a media circus. This subjectis well-covered ground on this blog, so I won’t burdenyou with more of it here. Just read mylast four or five ruminations, and you’ll get a good sense of my frustration and complaints.

But let me not be that guy in cyberspace who’s always whining about something. All is not lost.

There are many chefs and restaurants that are doing great things, despite the over-hype. As Iconfidedto my friend Andreasrecently over dinner in Copenhagen, I’ve found a renewed excitement in using thisblog to cheer on the great experiences I have,and, more…

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